Subculture | Tips and Tricks

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I was immediately draw to the colors in Anastasia Beverly Hill’s Subculture but waffled so hard on buying this palette because of all the internet shenanigans around it. While I love makeup and think I’m pretty okay at putting it on my face,  I was very intimidated by this palette.  But after seeing some of my favorite beauty account post pictures of their looks and I started to think, “yeah, I can do that too.” (Side Note – this is the same level of confidence 6 hours of the Great British Bake Off gives… I start thinking “I can make a tower of eclairs, no big deal.”)

Anyway, I’ve had this palette for two months, we’ve been on a journey together, and I wanted to share some the things I have learned that make the Subculture palette really easy to use.

Keep it simple – Because the shadows have such a high pigment content, looks can go real muddy/gray real fast. I find that the best looks I make have 2 or 3 shadows, anymore than that and things get weird. I will put color one on my crease or lid and crease, then use color two to deepen the outer corner. Then, I can safely use Electric, Adorn, or Cube as color three all over the lid. The biggest mess happens when I try to use 2 of the darker shadows (Axis, Rowdy, All Star, Untamed) in one look.

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Subculture: Dawn, Fudge, Adorn

Translucent powder is a must – Setting you eyelid with translucent powder (my favorites are RCMA No Color Powder, Laura Mercier Translucent Loose Setting Powder, and NYX HD Finishing Powder) will really help the shadows blend out evenly and will prevent the pigment sticking unevenly to your skin or eye primer. AND I also use translucent powder to blend out the edges of an eye look. Normally, I would use an eye shadow close to my skin tone to blend out edges, but these shadows are so pigmented that I can’t use Dawn to blend out the edges because it will change the color of the shadow I already have down. So I find that using a translucent powder can buff out the edges without changing the colors already on my eyes.

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Subculture: Roxy, All Star

 Don’t blow it out – With other eye shadows, I will sometimes use a lighter shadow to blend out a darker shadow, but that does not work well for me with Subculture. I have the most success blending a dark color into a lighter, rather than blending a darker color out with a lighter color.

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Subculture: Edge, Destiny, Electric

Place, then blend – Most of the time, I will take a shadow on my brush and slowly build layers of color until I reach the pigmentation that I want. That does not work for me with Subculture. Instead, I have most success if I used a smaller brush to place down the color, start to blend it out, and then go in with a larger, clean brush to finish it off.

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Subculture: Roxy, Fudge, Cube

Small brushes are your friend – Because the shadows can go muddy/gray for me pretty quickly, I prefer to use small brushes because I have more control over the shadows.

These tips are primary for creating looks using only the Subculture palette – it does play really well with others so using one shade from Subculture with a few shades from another palette has always worked well for me, but I like being able to create looks using one palette exclusively.

Please let me know if you have any tips or tricks for Subculture! I’d really love to know if you have found different ways to make this palette work. I have fallen in love with the colors and just want to use it every day!

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Kevin Aucoin – The Sensual Skin Enhancer Concealer and Foundation – Review

Kevin Aucoin’s The Sensual Skin Enhancer is described as “a must-have concealer and foundation that covers, contours, perfects, and corrects as it mimics the appearance of healthy, radiant skin.” You can “cover all your bases with this one of a kind, all-in-one, Kevyn Aucoin original formula. Correct, conceal, and contour with this complete coverage foundation. Jojoba oil, honey, and minerals hydrate the skin and create the ultimate soft, dewy complexion. The formula is long-wearing, sweat-proof, and perfect for all skin types and tones.” It comes in 16 shades, in a 0.63 oz plastic jar and retails for $48.00.

This product offers light (diluted with a primer) to truly full coverage and has a satin, skin-like finish. It lasts a full 12 hours without having to be set with powder and does not transfer throughout the day. Face products (bronzer/blush/highlight) blend out easily over the Sensual Skin Enhancer without a setting powder. A little goes a lonngggg way – I use a rice size amount on my forhead, chin, and each cheek. I find that a foundation brush works best to blend it out – a makeup sponge takes away too much coverage for me.

I really love this product for quick, everyday makeup. It can be mixed with a moisturizer or primer to create a tinted cream that lasts much longer than a standard BB Cream. I also use it as a foundation and it really covers everything I want to cover and truly looks like skin. I doesn’t cling to dry spots, accentuate pores, or settle into fine lines. It can be kind of hit or miss on my undereyes – I have to use the slightest amount and I do need it be set with powder. If I use too much or forget to set it, then it is a little greasy and cakey and weird.

Despite liking the product, I don’t love the ingredients or the packaging. I wish the Sensual Skin Enhancer came in a squeeze tube. As a general rule, I don’t like tubs and a tube or pump would be more hygienic and convenient. (Perhaps it’s to thick for a squeeze tube or a pot is more congruent with Kevin Aucoin’s luxury appeal.) I feel very conflicted about the ingredient list – the primary ingredient is mineral oil. My skin doesn’t have an issue with it, but I know it’s not really the best thing to put on my face. Also, Mineral Oil is cheap AF so I feel like I’m feel like I’m really paying for the name.

I think I would buy it again, but I wouldn’t recommend it to everyone because of the mineral oil and the price point.

Ingredients it DOES have:
Mineral Oil
Parabens – Spehora’s site has the producted listed as paraben free, but it does contain Methylparaben

Possible Irritants:
Talc
Fragrance
Mineral Oil

Vegan: No – honey and beeswax

Tested on animals: No

Complete ingredients:
Mineral Oil, Polybutene, Diethylhexyl Succinate, Polyethylene, Quaternium-18 Hectorite, Calcium Carbonate, Dextrin Palmitate, Honey, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Tocopherol,Cera Alba (Beeswax/Cire d’abeille), Butylene Glycol, Cholesterol, Lecithin, Talc, Triethylhexanoin, Methylparaben, Fragrance (Parfum). May Contain (+/-) : Iron Oxides (CI 77491,CI 77492, CI 77499), Mica, Titanium Dioxide (CI 77491).

Tinny London – Brand Review

I made this purchase from Trinny London almost two months ago and I really needed the extra time to form my opinion on the line. For most of the products, it was not love at first site. The philosophy of the brand is to have a “stack” of products that looks natural, is easy to apply with your fingers, and is perfect for travel so you can touch up throughout the day. And all of the products do fit that description, I just had a hard time fitting them into my routine and it took quite a few trial runs to get them to work for me.  I was having problems with the cream products because the last step of my skincare routine is usually an oil and they looked greasy on me. So I have found that I have to skip the oil and use a light moisturizer to make a whole Trinny London face. My feelings are all over the place on the brand – I love products, I hate products, some are worth the price and some definitely aren’t… but I have three more things in my cart soooooo *shrugs*.

The BFF Cream – This is supposed to be a shade adjusting, skin perfecting face cream with SPF 30. I like it as the SPF step in my routine because it’s very thin and hydrating and it does give a slight glow. But, I can’t layer this with most of my moisturizers because it will turn my face into an oil slick and it does not do anything in terms of coverage. So, while I do enjoy using this, I would not buy it again because it’s essentially a radiant SPF … for $50.00 (I would recommend the Heimish Artless Glow Base – a luminous SPF primer). This comes with an empty pot so you can carry some with you in your stack – mine currently has Kevin Aucoin’s The Sensual Skin Enhancer in it.

The Just a Touch – This was a total miss for me. It has a sheer/light coverage (TL says it can be build up to full, but I have not been able to do that) and an extremely short wear time. To be fair, TL is marketed as a brand for natural makeup that is easy to apply on-the-go and this product does check those boxes. It looks very natural on the skin, evens out my skin tone and will last a few hours if I set it with powder. Outside of running errands or a quick trip into town, I have no use for this.

The Golden Glow in Jensta and The Right Light in Starlight – These two were the high points of my purchase and I would totally buy them again. They are still a bit greasy and if I want to wear them on their own I do have to adjust my skincare, but they work well over satin/matte foundation. The bronzer is a FANTASTIC shade – it’s not red or orange or muddy at all. The Golden Glow truly does give you a sun kissed appearance. I am fair (N20) and I usually hate most bronzers because they just look wrong on me, but the Golden Glow adds a beautiful hint of tan to my face. The Right Light is a very subtle and natural, but it gives a truly lit-from-within appearance to the skin. I would recommend/repurchase these two products.

I’m currently eyeing some of Trinny London’s lip, cheek, and eye products because, while their base products aren’t for me, I like the bronzer and highlight enough to keep exploring the line!

11.14.16 Makeup Diary

Huda Beauty – Desert Dusk Palette

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Huda Beauty – Desert Dusk

Twilight is the star of this show! It’s a beautiful blue/purple duo chrome that’s looks almost glossy on the lids!

Desert Sand – All over from lashes to lid
Mush – transition
Amethyst – crease/outer third/blended out on lower lash line
Twilight – lid
Saffron – outer V/lower lash line

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Laura Mercier – Smooth Finish Flawless Fluid in Creme

Hourglass – Ambient Lighting Powder in Ethereal Light

Bare Minerals – Complete Coverage Serum Concealer in Fair

PUR Cosmetice – HydraGel Lift Eye Primer

L’Oreal Voluminous Feline Noir Waterproof Voluminous Feline Noir Waterproof

e.l.f. – Lock on Liner and Brow Cream in Medium Brown

Colourpop – Super Shock Cheek in Hippo

Charlotte Tilbury – Filmstar Bronze and Glow

Milani – Baked Powder Blush in Dolce Pink

Rimmel – Exaggerate Full Colour Lip Liner in East End Snob

Bite Beauty – Amuse Bouche Liquefied Lipstick in Whip

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10.23.17 Makeup Diary – Pur Cosmetics – Soiree Diaries

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Pur Cosmetics – Soiree Diaries

Set the lid with – Private Party
Brow bone – Mogul
Transition – Socialite
Crease – Gala
Outer 1/3 of lid – Snazzy
Inner 2/3 of lid – Dazzle
Buffed crease and outer edges – Stunner
Lower lash line – Snazzy and Stunner

I think this palette would be great for beginners – it has a great range of colors, it’s easy to blend, it has both mattes and metallics, and you can get a variety of looks out of it. I wish the darkest shades were more pigmented – it takes a lot of layering to build them up and even then they never do look as deep and rich as they are in the pan. But the lack of pigmentation does make it easier for beginners because it’s almost impossible to go overboard building up pigment in sheerest layers.

Pur Cosmetics – 3D Silk Lashes in Dive

Charlotte Tilbury – Full Fat Lashes 5 Star Mascara

NYX Cosmetics – Tinted Brow Mascara in Black

Tarte – Shape Tape Concealer in Light

Pur Cosmetics – HydraGel Lift 

Pixi Beauty – Lower Lash Mascara

Hourglass – Ambient Lighting Powder in Ethereal Light

Pur Cosmetics – No Filter Burring Photography Primer

Too Face – Peach Perfect Comfort Matte Foundation in Snow

Charlotte Tilbury – Filmstar Bronze and Glow

Makeup Revolution – Blushing Hearts Highlighter in Goddess of Love

Charlotte Tilbury – Swish and Pop Blush in Love is the Drug

L’Oreal – Infallible Lip Paint Metallics in Moon Lust

Rimmel – Exaggerate Lip Line in East End Snob